Last night I was wandering through Warsaw's Old City after dark. It was a profound and moving experience because the Old City was destroyed, along with most of the rest of Poland after the Warsaw Uprising in WWII. The beautiful medieval square, with its happy tourists and (last night, anyway) hurdy-gurdy player, is a reproduction. Here and there in the surrounding streets are markers noting the locations where groups of Poles were murdered by the Nazis.
To make the evening even more extraordinary, it was November 11, National Independence Day, so great masses of joyous people were coursing through the streets, and there were musicians and buskers and balloon vendors and and happy, weary children everywhere.
So I am happy. More soon, I hope.